Every Fight in American History Was Also a Fight Over Who Gets to Eat Good Bread
Early America’s most important invention wasn’t Benjamin Franklin’s lightning rod, or the cotton gin. It was the world's first fully automated flour mill, built by Oliver Evans in the 1780s. Evans's mill used a conveyor-belt grain elevator, leather straps, wheels, and Archimedean screws to process wheat from raw grain to finished flour without human hands touching it. Prior to Oliver Evans's automated system, milling relied on waterwheels or wind to turn heavy millstones, but every intermediate step required grueling manual labor to haul heavy grain sacks up ladders and shovel meal across floors. This invention ranks right below potatoes’ arrival in Europe or Haber-Bosch synthesis of nitrogen for fertilizer or Norman Borlaug’s dwarf wheat in making food cheaper. It also made America unique among nations in the world in that it never experienced a bread riot or mass executions of peasants stealing during a time of famine. It also shows how much we overlook the importance of bread in American history.
Today's guest is Andrew Coe, author of American Bread: A History. We discuss how the Pilgrims nearly starved because they couldn't grow wheat in New England and were saved by a dense loaf of rye and cornmeal that became America's first national food, and how Sylvester Graham convinced thousands of Americans in the 1830s that white bread and sexual desire were destroying the nation. We look at industrialization of food that would culminate in Wonder Bread, and how Vietnam War protesters boycotted Wonder Bread while Zen Buddhists at a California monastery wrote the book that launched the modern whole-grain movement. Coe argues that the story of American bread is the story of America itself: a nation that learned to survive on unfamiliar grain, built an industrial system that stripped bread of everything worth eating, and is now slowly trying to rediscover what it lost.
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